HOLY FRIJOLIES, One continent down one more to go!

Alright I am going to try and keep this short. Every time I think that I've seen it all I get broadsided by something even greater.
Just when I thought the rain had given me its worst I was blown away. It took place in Costa Rica just after leaving Jaco. As the day began to unfold it was quickly shaping up to one amazing day. The roads were fast and rolling the sun was shining and on my left aggravated waterfalls threw their masses down from the vegetation capping the cliff sides, on my right the pacific ocean threw itself at me. In between giant Iguanas lounged in the grasses under palm trees. Before I knew it fifty miles had slid by, time to take a break. I was only off my bike for a half hour but everything changed in that short time. The clouds rolled in and blocked out the sun turning my road into a dark and spooky path. The road abruptly ended and the rain started falling. Not a drizzle slowly building up into a down pour but it started as sheets of water and was relentless for the rest of the day. The road, using that description loosely, was the worst I have seen yet. Huge ruts and rocks pounding my body into putty. It got so bad that with pride only a straight man can understand I broke steel as I stopped a unnatural object from forcing its way into my annal cavity. My moment was short lived as I soon realized the with a broken seat post I would not have the luxury of a seat. If I was in charge, when one side cracks you would be able to turn it up-side-down put the seat back on and be off, simple right? No they've gone and tapered the post so it is smaller at end. Anyway, no seat, least of my worries. The water was flooding the roads everywhere. I had to cross about two dozen rivers that were flowing over the road. Half of these were over a meter deep and required me to take my trailer off my bike and carry each part above my head as I waded across. The rain never let up.
There was a light at the end of this day though. I was held up at a bridge where a Semi had rolled over and was being pulled away from its precarious resting place by a tractor. I looked as if it would be minute or two before the tractor would have the wreckage pulled to the side so traffic could continue. As soon as all the wheels were back on the road progress stopped for the police and on-lookers to loot the poor truckers belongings. Things wern't moving along as fast as I thought they where. It had gotten dark, it was still raining and I was tired so I lifted the torn fiberglass body that used to cover the engine and pulled my bike through to the other side. I rode into Uvita and though the rainy drizzle I saw a shimmering light, my head grew heavy and my sight grew dim I had to stop for the night... or something like that. It did remind my of an old scary movie. The light was the Tucan Hostel and it had a vibe that surrounded it. My spirits were lifted immediately after a few minutes talking with Trey and the rest of the staff. Thanks again guys!
Panama was spectacular some of the most enjoyable riding I've done. The camping was good and even when I couldn't find it anywhere I was able to stay at fire stations.
I chartered a sailboat to get me to Columbia and after I arrived in Panama City I found out that it doesn't leave from the city itself but from Port Venier on the Caribbean side on Panama. I had two days before the ship was set to sail and thought I would have to buck up and relax for a couple day. With this new information I quickly decided to bike there. Not as easy as it sounds. The hostel I was staying at did an excellent job trying to talk me out of going. After listening to their worst I packed up and headed out, it was 100 miles away and I had two days to figure it out. The road into Darien on my map stopped at the border. The Darien region of Panama was always described as a place to avoid and was taboo even in my mind. Soon enough I found myself watching the black sign with white letters that spelled out "Darien" fly by me as easy as any sign before had. I wasn't too surprised to see the road continue deeper into this forbidden region, not as surprised as some of the people watching me ride into it. I had I couple of concerned motorists stop to make sure I knew what I was doing, so far I think I do. Near a town named Llamo a road started north. All I knew of this road is that was going to be hilly and only vehicles with four wheel drive could manage its rough terrain. I spotted it instantly and turned onto it to start my first hill. This became the first hill since the beginning of the trip that I was not able to ride I had to get off my bike and push/pull the thing to the top. From there I came across the first descent I was unable to ride and walked my bike down. Soon there after the second hill I couldn't ride up/down and then another and another. I think I only road 80% of this forty mile stretch.
One of the scariest moments of realization washed over me as I woke up in the jungle packed up and started along the road I was surprised to round a corner and find a person walking toward me. I quickly noticed that he was carrying two rocks, one in each hand. I was a little timid approching him but he greeted my with a huge smile. He was very happy to see someone else out here. We talked for a while and I asked him why he was carrying the rocks. He explained that he had been walking for a few days now and was currently being stalked by two large puma. They had been following him for two days that he is aware of and at two occasions he had to chase them off with rocks when they got too close. At once all my surroundings closed in on me and I began to feel claustrophobic. I was scared to be alone and without anything to fight with. A what in the ---- are you doing here Sam? echoed in my mind as I sheepishly looked forward and started moving again.
One of the best views I've seen was once I crested yet another unrideable hill I found myself looking out at the San Blas Islands dotting the blue and green Caribbean Sea. I was so happy and it all looked so close. It wasn't, and only after two more hours of painfully slow progress did I arrive at a large river that bisected the road. I was dreading having to cross this river with my bike and began talking to some very amused locals sitting on the river bank. They could sense my trepidation and asked if I wanted a ride. I wasn't sure what they meant I didn't see any vehicle. They explained that I could follow the river out to the sea. I felt a little silly at that moment. Soon I had my bike loaded up into a long giant canoe and with one person siting on the bow and one in the rear we paddled into the current. It was straight out of a national geographic film with the jungle over hanging the sides of the river. Alligators and giant lizards along the banks and monkey screaming at my from the tree tops. The river ride was too short and soon we were in the open but sheltered waters surrounding the San Blas Islands which include 200 islands all together. Some big enough for a handful of palm trees and white sand beach while others were big enough for small villages. The Island I was trying to reach was at the north west end of the chain near the boundary of the reef. I looked pretty silly standing on an island 300 feet wide 600 feet wide with nothing but my bicycle. There I was though, right where I was supposed to be. All the was missing was the Roxy, the boat I had chartered. I was able to call the captain and was informed that he was picking up supplies and on of the village islands and would be by in about two hour to pick me up. Nothing to do now except swing in a hammock and drink a cold cervesa. Ulf, the Captain of the Roxy was very surprised that I had made it.
The next three days we sailed around the islands swimming, snorkeling and fishing. They were very sinful times. I think I covered three very well, Gluttony- Christina, Ulf's wife was an excellent cook, Sloth- no way of getting around it, and jealousy- I envy the life Ulf and Christina have found for them selfs. They are currently sailing around the world and have stopped to make some money taxiing travelers back and forth between Panama and Columbia. I may have infringed on another daydreaming of Lindsay.
I grew up watching Monty Python and sneaking late night viewings of The Benny Hill Show. I love that English wit and humor. I had four other ship mates on board two of whom were from London, James who was a tall guy who seamed shorter until you stood up next to him, and Tim who was a short guy who seamed tall until you stoop next to him. They were an odd couple and kept me entertained the entire voyage. It may have even been too much if not for the Canadians, Jen and Allison, there to keep a balance. We sailed under a full moon and my surrounding felt so distant from what my life has been like lately.
Which brings me Columbia. Any time someone asked me what my favorite part of the trip has been I always replied that I have been most impressed by the Yukon. Now I think I have a new favorite. I have seen pine trees and palm tree in the same veiw. The mountains are far from disapointing. The villages and citys are beautiful. I could go on for a while about why but I fear I have already gone on too long so I'll finish up here. One continent down one more to go. It feels good to be on South American soil.